Sunday, August 21, 2011

Typhoon waves

There has been some good surf recently from the typhoons, here are a bunch of random pics from over the past month.

This the coastal road driving towards Shizuoka. There is almost a surfable wave here underneath this bridge with Mt. Fuji in the background.

When it is too big for the beaches in front of Fukude and the winds are out of the east, this protected left point down in Irago turns on.

Around the corner from the left point is the more exposed coastline, a little too big to surf this day.

Same spot here in Omaezaki as the photos in the previous post.

Most of the waves that break on typhooon swells are difficult to find, localized, or both. Gun-san is a local everywhere in Shizuoka and he hooked me up by taking me out to a lesser known rivermouth setup. He and his group of friends have been surfing this area for years and they have it dialed.

The rivermouth we went to had a fun setup, lefts on one side and rights on the other in front of the driftwood locals shack.

Another rivermouth setup, this one was a bit muddier. There was a crew all over it in the morning here but by noon here it was empty.

And back to PK, once the swell backed down a bit. The sand setup has been good here, just mind the tetrapod shorebreak.

Two shots from Unagiya-san at PK.

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