Sequence from Marcio

Here are few shots from the last typhoon swell that I had emailed to me from Marcio, a photographer out in Omaezaki. There weren't many people out this day, but every once in a while a good set came through with some double up goodness. Typhoon #9 is rolling through this week and the forecast looks good...

DJ U-Chan

Typhoon 6

Typhoon #6 has churned up some gigantic surf here, I took a looooong road trip to find a more protected wave, and wound up stumbling into some rivermouth perfection. This point only turns on when its big and the swell wraps into the Suruga Bay. The view from the lineup while riding this wave is incredible, with Mt. Fuji towering in the background as the wave wraps down the point. However, my camera is not waterproof so I have no photographic proof!
By chance, Nori-san from Cojo Surfboards stopped by on his way to Fuji and snapped a couple cell phone pics.

Some pics

Last weekend we had some typhoon surf, out front was huge and out of control, so Tasuke and I loaded up his truck and took a trip to a more protected beach up the coast. My canon g11 came along for the ride.


Tasuke, feeling it.
(note to camera owners, taking your camera from inside an air-conditioned car straight into 90F humidity will cause condensation on the lens! but it can make for an interesting shot)

After surfing a tetrapod wedge wave with "rocket take-offs" we cruised around the beaches near Shizunami. This sign speaks for itself.

No menacing face in the waves in real life.

We braved the dangerous high waves and hung out for a bit to take a few shots.





Looking north

Looking west