Typhoon #6 has churned up some gigantic surf here, I took a looooong road trip to find a more protected wave, and wound up stumbling into some rivermouth perfection. This point only turns on when its big and the swell wraps into the Suruga Bay. The view from the lineup while riding this wave is incredible, with Mt. Fuji towering in the background as the wave wraps down the point. However, my camera is not waterproof so I have no photographic proof!
By chance, Nori-san from Cojo Surfboards stopped by on his way to Fuji and snapped a couple cell phone pics.
Sunday, July 17, 2011
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